1st Wave Surfing is a licensed Surfing Australia Surf School
Catching Waves
So now you’re out there, you’re holding the surfboard by the rails with your hands positioned on the chest line, 
you’ve selected a wave and it’s coming towards you.
In one simple movement turn 180 degrees so you are now facing directly in towards the beach, angle the surfboard slightly so the tail is lower than the nose, look over your shoulder and keep your eyes on the wave, now bend your knees and get ready to push off the sand.
The question now is “when do you jump on to the surfboard”? 
Wait for the wave to hit the tail, then, smoothly but powerfully push forward, slide on to the surfboard leading with the chest and adopt the correct body position practiced on the beach (chest line, elbows up and toes on the tail), push up, keep your head looking forward and ride the wave to the beach.
On approach to the beach slide to the back of the surfboard and pull up before running the fins into the sand.
Stage 1 Summary
The aim of stage one is to be able to catch waves and ride them to the beach with the correct body position on the surfboard. The more proficient you are in this stage will assist you achieve your surfing goal quicker. You need to be able to catch waves before you can stand and surf.
Important Point: To catch waves that are very small or not very
powerful you may need to start with ‘Stage (2) – Paddling’.
source : 1st Wave Surfing ... VISIT http://www.surfschoolguide.com
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